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The sex lives of ferrets

“Hold the little fecker down, would ye? This is gonna hurt her more than me…”

The three month old female kitten, which we had taken to the rural veterinary practice in County Meath, was looking understandably terrified by the large hypodermic needle being waved in front of her face.

“To be honest with you, this is the first time I’ve used this stuff on a cat. Over here in Ireland, we just spay or neuter pets, why did they need her to have a contraceptive injection?”

“I think they want her to produce kittens in a couple of years time, when a few of their older cats have gone”

“It’s bad enough with all the human population breeding like rabbits over here, never mind feckin’ cats!” he gave an almost imperceptible grunt as he pushed the needle under the kitten’s skin. The unfortunate feline froze for a matter of two seconds whilst the chemical entered her body, then Mike the vet released his grip from the scruff of her neck. She cowered into a corner of the cat carry case and mewed pitifully.

“Y’know I have a gamekeeper brings his Jills in here for the same thing. D’y know what a Jill is?”

“I haven’t a clue”

“Well my friend, a Jill is a female ferret. If ferrets don’t get pregnant, they’re not like other mammals; they don’t menstruate, they get infections and die an unpleasant death”

“Oh…right….I see…”

“So this gamekeeper brings in his ferrets to me for a contraceptive injection. The hormones fool the animal’s body into thinking that it’s pregnant. Hence no infection.”

“Uh…..great stuff..”

“But yer man Pat Donnely can’t afford the forty Euro each time he brings ‘em in, so y’know what he does now?”

“I can’t imagine” I reply, starting to become genuinely inquisitive.

“He fecks the little bastards with an electric toothbrush until they wriggle like buggery, then he knows they’re ‘done’.”

“An electric toothbrush?!…”

“Yeah, obviously he takes the brush bit off, but attaches a cotton bud instead. They love it too, he reckons. It seems to work, cos they’re all still alive, and Pat’s not spent a cent here in two seasons.”

“Great…er…how much do we owe you?”

“Just the forty Euro, my friend, thank you.”

“Great, thanks. I’ll need a receipt, too.”

I hadn’t been expecting a lecture on the recreational sex games of ferrets, but that had been worth forty Euros in itself. We had been asked by our latest clients to take Harriet the kitten in to Mike Navan’s surgery for treatment, to ensure that “none of those damned Irish farm cats” would render her pregnant. One could understand Harriet’s owners’ dilemma. They already have eleven felines wandering around the house and gardens, which is enough; yet the premises are so vast that another hundred assorted pets wouldn’t have made the place feel crowded.

The house is owned by race-horse folk. It is in open countryside, eighty kilometres west of Dublin, an imposing three storey, five bedroomed, six bathroomed Georgian rectory, chock full of antiques, paintings and the like. Set in five acres of lawns and carefully kept gardens, it’s like visiting one of those stately homes with silk ropes separating visitors from the furniture, except we get to live in it. We inhabit the very comfortable servant’s quarters in the basement, complete with woodburner, sky TV and power shower. Two Land Rovers are available for our use. The owners, being our clients, have flown to Africa for the winter, to “sort out the manager of the damned lodge”. Apparently they own a safari hotel in the Namibian bush, and the native employees aren’t bringing in a good return on our clients’ investments. I’m glad I’m not the hotel manager, I fear that Mrs D would have the fellow shot out of hand if she felt that she could get away with it.

So it is that we are sharing the house with twelve delightful cats, all very affectionate and even talkative. There are three donkeys in the stables outside, who just need a daily muck-out, some carrots, a couple of handfuls of hay and a bit of fuss. Danny the gardener and Rose the cleaner visit regularly. It is our job to co-ordinate the efforts of the hired hands whilst keeping the animals happy and well nourished. It’s not an arduous gig. The only problem is that we don’t have any broadband, as its installation has not gone ahead prior to our arrival as promised.

There is a satellite dish about half the size of a NASA tracking station in the garden, but despite daily nagging, the engineers haven’t yet returned to connect it to the house. If you thought that getting a plumber to arrive was difficult, try finding a satellite uplink engineer in rural County Meath. We’re stuck with e-mail communication only via 56k dial up and a Windows 98 PC. Using a Windows computer is an unpleasant enough experience, but trying to use the internet at 56k makes the idea of an early death lose its sting. It seems that there has been a huge cock up somewhere in South America, where the satellite signal initiates, and it could be many weeks yet before the installation is complete. If the Irish say it could be weeks, it’s unlikely to be within our lifetime, and certainly not within the eleven weeks of this house sit.

There’s plenty to do around the place, but until we’re wired, or more accurately wire-less, all T’s web-based projects have ground to a halt. Good job we have so much spare money in the bank.

Previous to our arrival here there have been the usual ups and downs, all part of daily life for itinerant media stars such as ourselves. Actually, there have been more downs than ups recently, which have tested our mettle to the limit; making the prospect of a fixed residence and gainful tax-paying employment seem almost bearable. Arriving here in Ireland is enabling us to repair, but it’s been a rollercoaster ride:

After leaving Kettering and the dozy wolf hound in the first week of October, we have had two more assignments; one near Cannes and the other just outside Solihull. You’d think that the former would be more pleasant than the latter, but we were surprised to find that the countryside between Solihull and Stratford on Avon is something of a horsified millionaire’s paradise, Warwickshire’s best kept secret. We looked after two pleasant little dogs in a canal side converted chapel for a fortnight. Very cosy it was too, with a superb little pub around the corner, but the preceding fortnight was a nightmare.

T had been trucking again, this time for a scumbag driving agency, one of the big national setups. I’ll call them ‘Excreta Personnel’. These organisations are usually staffed by twenty-something jack-the-lads (or lasses) whose obsessions with personal grooming far outweigh their capability to provide a meaningful service to those with whom they are supposed to interact professionally. Their sharp suits and silver tongues cannot hide their shallow incompetence for very long, hence the high staff turnover in such organisations. In short, they are a bunch of un-communicative yuppie tossers who couldn’t sell dope to Rastafarians, let alone run an employment agency. T’s usual agencies, the non-corporate familiar faces, who tend to reach for the kettle before the pocket calculator, had been going through an unusually quiet period, so financial necessity forced T to contact Excreta Personnel.

First of all they sent T up to Northumbria with an eighteen-tonne flatbed truck full of expensive copper pipes. After having been questioned as to the wisdom of driving from Derby to Morpeth via two more deliveries in Leeds and Newcastle on Tyne, they were surprised when T ran out of driving time on the return leg in Sheffield. They were even more delighted when the Geordie plumbers at the Morpeth destination refused delivery of the pipes, claiming to have cancelled the order some days previously. Whatever, T just loves sleeper cabs.

The next few days driving was for a better agency, but they sent T to a notoriously disorganised so called blue-chip national courier organisation. It was undoubtedly T’s worst three days in seventeen years of truck driving. If it wasn’t for the money, which was contextually adequate, T would have told them to insert their delivery notes, and the clipboard, in a humid, dark, hairy place. It’s amazing that such organisations are still in business. They must haemorrhage money, yet the inefficiencies of such unwieldy corporations continue daily. Apparently, the Royal Mail loses several pennies on each letter delivered. These cretins must lose pounds on every pallet, if any customers are lucky enough to have their goods delivered at all. The loads are not ‘routed’ by the traffic office, and to add to the misery, drivers aren’t allowed in the warehouse to supervise the loading of their lorries. Thus, an agency driver unfamiliar with an area, even with the aid of modern maps and a GPS, finds him or herself driving past the same places in a city centre several times in a day. Add to this the fact that many of the recipients do not own fork lift trucks, so despite the truck’s curtain sides, other pallets have to be manually unloaded, then re-loaded again at many delivery points. I struggle to convey the misery which some agency drivers undergo daily, but remember, the next time you see a lorry blocking a high street, spare a thought for the poor sod driving it. He hasn’t parked it there for fun.

Before leaving for Cannes, more problems for the house sitting Gruesome Twosome, this time in the form of medicinal mysteries and medical mishaps. T has been taking an anti-gout medication, Allopurinol, daily for some five years since all the beer, Beaujolais and beefsteak took their toll on his ability to synthesise protein. The resulting gout from that carnivorous lifestyle can be almost indescribably painful, such that it can be impossible to walk more than a few paces having knee, ankle and toe joints which seem to have replaced their cartilage with red hot iron filings. Gout patients can never be cured, so even a vegan teetotal regime can never undo the damage done to the system. Also, the good news is that the medication is completely curative, so once stuck on the pills for life, one can continue to be almost as dissolute as one desires. But over the last three months, odd side effects such as intense thirst, maddening itching of the skin and waves of intense nausea had been plaguing T with increasing regularity. The first thought was diabetes, but tests revealed a normal glucose level, together a BP of 120 over 80, good by anyone’s standards let alone a drunken fat bloke. Cholesterol was back to normal thanks to more pills, but the medics were baffled. Our GP in Burton Upon Trent isn’t known for his sympathetic manner, in fact, informal waiting room chats with other patients reveal that many are so frightened of his brusque, often overtly rude and impatient attitude, that they will wait until they are near dead before daring to visit the surgery. So T went into battle recently with Dr Hardass to seek advice. The following dialogue isn’t exaggerated, he really is this unpleasant:

“Yes, what’s the trouble?”

“I’ve been getting very bad side effects from the Allopurinol”

“I tell you what, let’s play a game. You tell me what’s wrong with you and I’ll pretend to be the doctor.”

“OK, sorry. I’ve been getting raging thirst and itching skin, needing to pee all the time and occasional nausea. I went to another doctor whilst I was away travelling, who recommended tests for diabetes. I had the results and I’m not diabetic. When I stop taking the pills, the symptoms disappear, but then of course I get crippling attacks of gout, so I’m in a difficult position”

“Well you’d best just keep taking the pills and drink plenty of water”

“Yeah, but it’s really unpleasant, I spend half my day looking for public toilets when I’m driving, and I fear that these symptoms are indicating toxicity which might be causing long-term damage”

“You’re a smoker aren’t you?”

“About four hand rolled cigarettes per week, if that, nowadays”

“Well there you are then, you know how I feel about smokers. You all bring illness on yourselves”

“I can’t see the relevance here. (Thinks- Dr Hardass is really obese and obviously drinks a lot of Whisky. His nose is very red and has expanded over a lot of his face; who is he to dictate lifestyle issues to others? But I say nothing) It’s simple, when I don’t take the pills, the symptoms go away”

“So stop taking the pills, then”

“But I’ll suffer from terrible gout. Isn’t there an alternative medication?”

“No.”

“So what do you suggest?”

“What would you like me to suggest?”

(Thinks - your fat decapitated head on a pole in the reception area) “I was hoping you might come up with some ideas as to how to proceed.”

“Why not try decreasing the daily dose of the medication?”

“OK, let’s give that a try”

Two punches on his computer keyboard later, his printer is rattling off a couple of prescription forms. We are interrupted by the next patient walking through the door. Dr Hardass has a clever way of bringing consultations to an abrupt end, by pressing the ‘next patient’ button under his desk without your knowledge. As you draw breath to ask anything else the next patient is upon you, as the receptionist has sent him / her down the corridor. Nice fellow, Dr Hardass.

Since then, a kidney function test later, showing a normal healthy result, an attempt at alternative medication, which did exist but Hardass couldn’t be bothered to even look at a pharmaceutical directory, and T is still no better off. The alternative stuff seems ineffective and is apparently still fairly experimental. Cutting out alcohol almost entirely (!) and eating virtually no red meat has helped a little, but every few days T continues to hobble or put up with the side effects. Watch this space.

On arrival in Cannes we had our further share of misfortune. Firstly, L had been experiencing some discomfort in the neck region, but put it down to a recent virus and resulting swollen glands. But when she encountered difficulty in swallowing, we thought it prudent to make use of our E111 European medical cover and the efficiency of the French medical services. A trip to the local doctor prompted an immediate phone call to the hospital at Mougins. Within five minutes L had an appointment for an ultrasound scan and a Scintographic scan of the thyroid. Both these procedures were carried out within three days. As T’s French is near fluent, and L has not yet had the opportunity to learn, it fell upon T to enter the consulting rooms to translate.

The French have no time for niceties when it comes to official matters, be they governmental, legal or medical. The consultant slapped a great dollop of some sort of conductive gel onto L’s throat and began mapping various parts of her neck and lower jaw. He worked roughly with a handheld machine that looked like a giant battery shaver. It was connected to a cathode-ray monitor next to the bench whereupon L was lying. L couldn’t see the screen, but T was standing behind the doctor. The white coated consultant paused occasionally to inhale swiftly through his teeth, shake his head and mutter: “Ca n’est pas belle, ca. Mmm, peut etre c’est une probleme….”

This made L apprehensive and T pressed the medic for more information. All he would say that a blood test was required as well as further tests. T translated this whilst L started to feel slightly weak at the knees in anticipation of some horrible news.

Two anguished days later, back to the same clinic, where a small syringe of some mildly radioactive isotope solution was injected into L’s neck. As the authorities forbid anyone going close to the patient during this procedure, it’s slightly worrying. If the stuff they’re injecting into someone makes ‘em light up like a resident of Sellafield in Cumbria, or perhaps like the kids going to school on the ‘Reddy-Brek’ advert, it must be fairly potent. Now I understand why L has such a ‘glowing’ personality. A large camera device called a pinhole collimator hung over her throat as if she were an aristocrat going to meet Mme Guillotine. After a half hour of whirring and clicking, the exposure was made and the result printed onto an A3 full colour sheet.

The consultant radiologist summoned T and L into an ante room. He was wearing ‘pince-nez’ glasses of the type that could make Jade Goody seem like an intellectual. His white receding hairline swept back over a high forehead above a thin face. Straightening his bow tie against his neat expensive striped shirt collar, then deftly tucking the tail of his white coat beneath him, the consultant sat down and started talking in his halting but very understandable English. He had an accent exactly like that of the late under watt-ere explor-rer Monsieur Jacques Cousteau. His speech having the same gentle rise and fall cadence of Jacques himself, the consultant talked us through the results of the scan, with a formal introduction. One could almost see bubbles rising from the computer enhanced print before him.

“I am docteur Leboeuf of ze Esperance Clinique. Good moning. We were swimming sroo zee ocean dept’s, when we en-count-er-ed a large bull shark……Now zen, we ‘ave eer ze resultants of zer scan scyroidique. It ees true to notice zat you ‘ave some swelling of zee scyroid eer on zee left lowair lobe. Also, zee radio-actif mateerielle ‘as not picked up well on zis side. Togezer zis points to une probleme which, in my opinion, and zat of my estimated coll-egs, is a syroidism pas trop severe”

“Sorry, is that good or bad?” Demanded L, anxiously.

“Eet is not good, but zen again eet is not so bad eezer”

“Mmmm, well, my Eenglish friends, you see zat it is necessary for some traitement but I sink zat it will not be trow, par-don, too sev-eer”

“Well, what is the problem, Doctor? Is it serious?!”

“I sink you must to go ‘ome and rest. You must to take some Aspirin. And per-aps a glass of good wine”

“That’s it?!?”

“Yes, zat is it. A vi-roos az caus-ed your syroid to swell. You ‘ave some nodules also, but it is only necessaire to ave zem checked every two or sree years…. Furzemore you ‘ave some peteet stones in zee salivaire glands. A mine-or au-pair-rash-on may be required but zees is, as you Eengleesh would say, no big sing. When you are return-ing ‘ome to Ing-land you must zpeek wiz your own doc-tair”

And that appeared to be that. Monsieur Cousteau handed us a sheaf of papers, all the print-offs and a bill for two hundred and fifty Euros. He ushered us away from his office as he headed for the hospital restaurant for his three hour lunch-break.

Utterly relieved, we headed for the door. When one is told, for today at least, that one doesn’t have a terminal condition, the rest of one’s day is just a breeze. T didn’t even lose his temper at the car park ticket machine which wouldn’t accept his English debit card, as he was 20 cents short of the five euros needed to operate the barrier. He even smiled when no less than three security officials and the hospital receptionist brought forth three separate card authorisation machines which were similarly inoperative. T suggested that a member of staff lend him 20 cents, then he could raise the barrier, drive to the cash machine in town, return to the hospital, buy a coffee and a croissant from the pleasant staff bistro, then re-imburse the 20 cents to the generous donor. Of course, this was impossible, and it was absolutely forbidden for anyone to lend coinage to anyone else within hospital premises. Especially on a Thursday. But it was permissible for a staff member to donate coins to whomsoever they wished on a personal basis, so, eventually, one of the hospital porters ended up 20 cents lighter, and we were on our way back to the villa near Valbonne where we were undertaking our assignment.

The next morning we awoke to find that a malicious drunkard had evidently taken a rotivator to the expensively manicured lawns of the villa. Several thousand square feet of once bowling-green flat swathed turf looked as if it had been used for an impromptu stock-car race overnight. If we’d have dug a couple of trenches, the scene could have resembled a re-enactment of the battle of the Somme , our villa being whizz-bang in the middle of no man’s land. Walking down the road apiece, it would seem that the other millionaires in the gated secure community had suffered similar damage. After a while it became evident that a family of wild boar had become hungry, come down from the mountains overnight, and sought their favourite food of worms and underground mushrooms. These delicacies are most easily found under nice flat soft turf, and the villas of the ‘Domaine’ offered easy pickings.

T walked around the villas trying to seek advice. You never saw so many rich people in such a flap. The whole tax-exiled community was up in arms, and out on their patios. Some sat on their deckchairs, some leaned on the bonnets of their S Type Mercedes saloons, one or two people even went as far as to get dressed from their towelling robes; but they were all simultaneously pursuing the same activity. All of them were barking into their mobile phones to summon their respective gardeners and security staff. Some folk had suffered the ultimate ignominy of turf floating in their swimming pools and mud tainting the water.

T even saw the richest guy in the area, a Saudi oil billionaire, walking around with a leaf rake in one hand, and a fat cigar in the other.

By lunchtime, a real community spirit suddenly appeared amongst a bunch of anally retentive over-moneyed normally reclusive expats. Someone had to be blamed. The fences hadn’t been buried deep enough below ground, and the architects hadn’t thought to electrify those fences. The Mayor was to blame for not having all wild boar killed within a five hundred kilometre radius, the French government shouldn’t allow wild boar anywhere in France.

We have since learned that the boar in question had paid the ultimate price; local hunters were employed to seek them out and kill them, their spoils being all the meat they could freeze from the slaughter. Whether or not lawyers were consulted I’m as yet unaware, but our client simply instructed us by phone to authorise any expenditure to repair the damage and prevent the beasts re-entry. Enough money was thrown at half a dozen Provencal landscape gardeners that weekend than would clear the entire third world debt and fund a cure for the common cold. Our guy Laurent took the view that if he just added a nought to his estimate, it should cover things nicely.

So, despite living in all the nice surroundings, things haven’t been as smooth as usual. Our recent medical issues have been problematic, we have been madly overcharged by BT on a direct debit for services we never used, we have exhausted ourselves by driving with three estate car loads of stuff moving to our new static van in the Cotswolds, and there we have found some new people to really make our day. Or not. These are the resident site wardens who are the SS of the caravan world.

To some people the glass is half full, to others, half empty, but this husband and wife team at the static holiday van site are professional pessimists. They will empty the glass down the drain then smash it against your head, whilst sending you a nominal invoice for doing so. And they’re unpleasant with it.

Everything is against the rules, and even if one tries to do the right thing, it should have been done another way. Our shed blew down, which was obviously our fault, and I was sent a terse SMS message asking what arrangements I was making for its removal as it was fit only for scrap. I’d made f*ck all arrangements as I was in the South of France when I caused the gale force winds which moved the damned thing three feet to the left. On my return I mended the damage, but apparently I hadn’t mended it properly, and what’s more it is apparently against site regulations to use decorative gravel around a new flagstone path. L had cleared dozens of bags of leaves and carefully pruned the small tree on the small plot around our van, but this was apparently unnecessary and against regulations. However, when the electricity on site tripped-off and all the surface water pipes froze because a contractor neglected to lag them, the Gloucestershire Gestapo were conspicuous by their absence.

But, things are looking up. Since the Guardian article, we are now almost completely booked for 2008, except for six weeks during June / July. For some reason it seems that all our new clients are smallholders or farmers. Is this representative of a typical left-of-centre broadsheet readership? Organic rural Guardianistas down your way? A tale of ordinary aga-cooking folk? The most dangerous assignment we have accepted so far next year is the care of a Devon cider farm for a few weeks. There are a few sheep, some chickens, a fat cat, an English Springer and two large sheds stacked to the ceiling with cases of velvet-smooth, semi-dry, 6% organic scrumpy. Guaranteed no hangover and no reason to get up early.

More from here in Ireland around Christmas time, if the Guinness doesn’t kill us first. Send more gout pills, or else I am undone.

Just what is a cyber itinerant, anyway?

In 2002 my partner and I chucked in our crap jobs. We were within months of our fortieth birthdays. We had divorced from respective long-standing marriages the previous year and neither of us had dependent children. Together we bought a near-derelict ‘two up two down’ Victorian terraced house in the Midlands for under £40k. We took a year off from our ‘careers’ to renovate that house, yet on completion of the project we realised that neither of us could face a further 25 year sentence of credit cards, possessions and tedium. We’ve never had salaried jobs since then.

During our ‘sabbatical’ we had started house sitting for wealthier friends and relatives. We looked after their dogs, cats and houses whilst they took well deserved holidays. One day we just decided to try house sitting full-time. The mathematics weren’t difficult; fund the whole deal with a re-mortgage, let the house to tenants to cover the payments, then buy a beefy tow-car and caravan to live in between house sits. Sorted. Oh, what about earning enough money for the essentials; beer, kebabs, wine, cider, vodka, gin, diesel, clothes and stuff? That’s the difficult part.

We wanted everything totally above board, so we set up a bona-fide limited company, of which we’re both PAYE employees, but we never earn enough money to pay tax. Everything’s properly invoiced and there’s nothing done for cash.  The tricks are low overhead, transportable skills and savvy use of information technology. The low overheads are achieved by living in other peoples’ houses at their expense. We don’t have to pay a mortgage, we have no council tax, no utility bills, no gym fees, no commuting costs, nor any of those golden handcuffs which manacle regular citizens.

Between us, as well as industrially cleaning our clients’ houses, and keeping their pets happy and healthy; we can also build basic websites, drive HGV’s (if there is an employment agency nearby), paint and decorate, clear and landscape gardens, tile bathrooms and other odd-jobs. We’ve even swept someone’s chimney as part of a deal. Accordingly, sometimes we can charge money for house sitting, sometimes not. It depends on the clients’ needs and their closeness to their wallets.

We often house sit around Europe for UK expats with large properties. I’m typing this from a closed-for-winter hotel 3000 ft up in the French Pyrenees, in front of the crackling wood burner with the dog and two cats in our charge. The view from my ‘office’ window is stunning. We’ve been here since November, and snowed in for the last ten days. Thanks to the internet I can just, but only just, find enough design work to keep us in bread, cheese and wine. In my old life I worked in a windowless, fluorescent-lit basement for eight years at one stretch.

As a cyber-itinerant I always carry a Mac laptop and a 3G mobile phone that acts as an emergency modem if there’s no ADSL signal. We obtain all our house sit assignments from our website, so we can’t afford to miss just one e-mail message. An I-pod carries our CD collection and our life is permanently crammed into our old estate-car.

Being intentionally homeless can be tough sometimes. During the winter it’s too cold to live in the caravan between house sits in the UK, so if stuck we head down to the Spanish Costas, where the retired expats sometimes need odd jobs done in return for caravan space. We can’t profess to be entirely idle, but we usually work when we need to, and usually from the nicer parts of the world.

La Provence technologique.

It’s been almost seven weeks since we arrived here in Cannes, but it feels more like Crawley with better weather. Nowadays, with cheap flights, satellite dishes and broadband signals, it’s possible for the affluent to cherry-pick the world for its more pleasant locations; to gain all the pleasure of the planets nicer places, without the pain of language problems or other such inconveniences. There are almost as many English as there are French around here, a significant proportion of the former don’t wish to integrate and the majority of the latter seem reasonably happy to accept that situation. In other parts of France, the French tend to resent the Anglicisation of their homeland, yet here it is a way of life. Perhaps they’re just used to it. I blame that Peter Mayle bloke.

It is a good job we have the internet and Sky dish though, because however hard we try, it’s very difficult to integrate into a community when one is rootless. We’ve been here just under two months, and we’ll be gone in less than four weeks; thus it is impossible for L to take French lessons, as it takes a long time to build up a  successful relationship with a teacher, and in any event we’ll be out of France for at least the next eight months. T’s French is virtually fluent now, but it will soon become schoolboy-esque after a summer in the UK.

The fortress mentality of the rich people leads to an inevitable loss of any community spirit. Everyone around here, and we’re culpable too, lives behind high black steel-railing fences, which are rendered aesthetically acceptable yet opaque by green plastic netting and fast-growing ivy. An obsession with security has locked themselves in, as equally as those whom they fear will attempt to steal their possessions have been locked out. People stay in their extremely comfortable self-imposed prisons and call the gardener, plumber, pool-technician or TV repairman on the phone. There’s no need to venture outside apart from visits in the 4×4 to the supermarket. How long will it be before Tesco start online home-delivery to Antibes? I don’t know if the Wanadoo broadband help-line has English speaking techies but I wouldn’t be surprised.

So far in the last few weeks we’ve managed to work, pay bills, buy camera equipment, learn new skills, purchase European cover car insurance and even renew our public liability insurance policy over the internet. We’ve filed our Companies House annual return online and will be doing the same with our Inland Revenue affairs in a couple of weeks.

The latest thing now is ‘live chat’ help to replace call-centres when trying to buy insurance or whatever online. It seems to work well, but the real fun comes from spoofing the operators. The great thing is that the system e-mails a transcript of the  ‘conversation’ to you afterwards. I couldn’t resist having a go:

General Info
Chat start time     Mar 24, 2007 12:54:16 PM EST
Chat end time     Mar 24, 2007 1:11:32 PM EST
Duration (actual chatting time)     00:17:16
Operator    Zoe

Chat Transcript
info: Welcome to the Motor Insurance Live Chat service.
info: You are now chatting with Zoe

Zoe: Hello, you are through to Zoe please can I take your full name and postcode
Visitor: Mr William Indup de23 7db
Zoe: Hello William , how can I help ?
Visitor: Hello. I’m more comfortable if you address me more formally. I am Mr W.Indup, is that OK?
Zoe: Yes, sorry. Hello Mr Indup, how can I help ?
Visitor: I’ve been trying to sort out some motor insurance, but the system keeps refusing to quote me. Can you help, please?
Zoe: No problem , Mr Indup. What is the system refusing to accept, please?
Visitor: I have a vehicle modification.
Zoe: How is your vehicle modified, please? Is it the citroen 1.1 Ax on the quote form?
Visitor: Yes, the Citroen. I have a slightly bigger engine now than the 1100 factory model
Zoe: That might be a problem Mr Indup. What engibe is in the car now , please ?
Visitor: It is a Chevrolet engine
Zoe: That might be a problem Mr Indup. Copuld you please give more details of this engine?
Visitor: A 7.5 litre V8 with twin nitrous bottles and a blower
Zoe: Please attend for a few moments while i speak with my supervisor
Visitor: OK
Zoe: I am sorry but we will be unable to quote you for insurance cover on this basis. Thank you for your time today
Visitor: Hang on, why not?
Zoe: I am sorry but it is our policy not to cover modified vehicles. Thank you for your time today
Visitor: Not so fast, your website says to contact for other queries, what’s wrong with my engine? It’s a pro job pimped up total bitchin’ righteous ride, four on the floor, know what I mean? It’s not some back street cut & shut, innit? Can’t you just add on something for the extra valuation or whatever? I’ve got photos and everything.
Zoe: I am sorry but it is our policy not to cover modified vehicles. Is there anything else i can help you with today ?
Visitor: What if I disconnect the nitrous and my mate steve beefs up the dodgy brakes a bit?
Zoe: I am sorry but it is definitely not our policy to cover modified vehicles. Thank you for your time today
Visitor: How about my wife’s car then?
Zoe: Do you wish to insure your wife’s car Mr Indup ?
Visitor: Yes, while I’m on, can you quote for me driving her car please?
Zoe: You can do this by filling out the forms online Mr Indup
Visitor: But I’ll only have to speak with the help section again on account of the dog
Zoe: I do not understand, sorry
Visitor: Is the dog insured if he’s in the car with me or my wife?
Zoe: Please attend for a few moments while i speak with my supervisor
Visitor: OK
Zoe: There are no specail requirements for domestic pets mr Indup, but they must be kept in an appropriate carrier for safety
Visitor: Its a big dog
Zoe: I’m afraid I’m unable to comment any further. As long as a pet is restrained in accordance with the road laws in your country there is no problem
Visitor: We’ve got a goat, too.
Zoe: Thank you for your time today
Visitor: and we keep donkeys

info: Zoe has ended the session. Please could you take one moment to complete the online survey once the chat window closes.

So our daily routine of household and dog care continues in its pleasant lazy way, notwithstanding a bit of cyberfun. On that subject, we have been doing a lot of internet trawling in the hope of identifying the most used keywords to drive Google traffic to our website. The other day, I noticed an interesting looking advert which does wonders for the house sitting community. You see, if you use a professional house sitter, you don’t come across people like this:

House Sitting:

One time when I was house-sitting for my neighbor, I went into her bedroom and looked at her panties. I took one pair and put them on. Silky and smooth……

In the words of Cat Stevens, it is indeed a wild world.

T is still bagging a few quid each week from odd bits of computer-based work, Lin keeps the canines happy, the property spic & span, as well as a healthy daily workout on the cross-trainer and the multi-gym. And it is an amusing irony that a desire to attempt a keep-fit (fitter in L’s case) has caused us to watch more television than at any time in our lives. This is because the gym equipment is in front of a huge TV screen, so what else to do whilst attempting to shed the pounds but watch daytime telly, mainly re-runs of old stuff. Some of it is so bad that it’s great. Even more fun is a deconstruction of it. Here’s what we’ve been watching:

∑ Howard’s Way:
Stressed out yuppies with unfeasibly large shoulder pads scream into very large mobile telephones. Did people really dress like that? Will Jan manage to stop herself from shagging that bloke in the boatyard? Keel-haulingly bad.

∑ The Onedin Line:
The same nautical thing rewound by a century. Similar principal, no mobile phones. Victorian costumes and really nice boat sequences. Firm but fair shipping line owner  bounces back from multiple crises week after week. Exciting enough to remove the barnacles from your bottom.

∑ Ready Steady Cook:
Exotic recipes produced in half an hour by celeb-amateur duo teams. Then the chefs are given a bag of ‘surprise’ ingredient stuff to transform into a cordon-bleu feast in about five minutes flat. Are they briefed? When Paul Rankin is presented with some tortilla pancakes, egg noodles, cashew nuts, soya sauce, bamboo shoots and two cook-chill skin-on chicken breasts; he announces his intention to make some Chinese-style chicken stir-fry pancakes. Oooooh, good thing he’s a professional.

∑ Mythbusters:
Jackass for the safety conscious. Thirty-something reformed stoners blow things up on telly for the scant excuse of (dis) proving urban myths or famous historic events. “We put twenty kilos of fertiliser explosive in the back of a van to see if it could be used as a potential terrorist weapon…” It’s fun to watch the slo-mo big bangs though. Don’t try this at home. The amusing thing about all these ‘historical reconstruction’ programmes is the way in which they give up when the going gets tough: “We tried navigating on an open boat without a compass from Portsmouth to New York as the early explorers would have done. After three hours we got lost, so, to save time for the programme, we turned on the GPS and radioed the coastguard…”

∑ American Chopper
Nothing to do with adult movies. A bunch of hairy bikers with some seriously professional workshop equipment build no-expense spared chopped Hogs somewhere in upstate New York. No one swears, their overalls are spotless, and they always have a spanner that fits. Nice guys, although you wouldn’t call Paul a c**t to his face unless he was chained to a lamp post.

∑ The garage
UKTV’s answer to American Chopper with dodgy second-hand cars. More realistic. A bunch of incompetent, cowboy English mechanics rip off their hapless customers on the Costa Del Sol. Everyone swears. Their t-shirts are oily, and they never have a spanner that fits. Many dissatisfied customers. Not nice guys, I can’t believe they’re still trading.

∑ Catchphrase
“Say what you see..”
“Smug twat of a compere….”

∑ Gordon Ramsay’s ‘F’ Word:
Swearing so much it becomes meaningless and doesn’t work. Like a bad tempered football manager, Ramsay tries hard to fit in extra ‘fucks’ and ‘bastards’ in between the syllables of words, let alone between the words themselves. Nigel, pub landlord and wanabee Food celeb looking for his fifteen minutes of fame, was roundly abused by Gordon because he (Nigel) produced an “absofuckinlutely bloody fuckin useless bastard of a soufflé” Le mot juste.

∑ Bullseye
Diesel lezzas and warehousemen from Wigan, the latter sporting white cotton socks under slip on loafers and black crimpelene slacks, compete for hostess trolleys and cases of Liebfraumilch. “The £30 you’ve got in yer pocket is yours to keep. It’s the Donny Osmond CD’s and the Atari 64k against whatever is behind Bully’s prize board. The choice has to be yours” Get the defibrillators ready….

∑ The weakest link
Impossible not to shout the answers, but it’s different when you’re on the telly, innit? Being rude to people, and those people being ritually, publicly humiliated, seems to have become the new rock’n’roll. Thirty eight minutes, starting at quarter-past five equals three hundred and sixteen calories at level 9. Fitness club ‘on the way home from the office’ TV fodder.

∑ Eggheads
On immediately after ‘The weakest link’. Pub quiz teams of Morris Dancers and Local Government Health & Safety officers go head to head against a set of resident smart-arses who last had sex in the 1970’s. Ersatz tension attempted to be injected by clearly bored newsreader. Weak, despite there being twenty-five thousand quid up for grabs.

∑ Fred Dibnah’s world of steam.
Your favourite granddad takes you around the traction engines and buys you a metaphorical candy-floss. Harmless, portly, fifty-something men with beards explain how trains used to go. Field of Dreams based in Dudley.

∑ Castaway.
This new offering from the BBC attempts to revisit the justifiable success earned from the original show, based on a cold Hebredian outcrop seven years ago. Then, a community was attempted to be built by a couple of dozen ordinary people seeking something extraordinary for their lives. It was shot with one camera, and with the exception of the irritatingly likeable Fogel, who ended up shagging the lone camera-woman after a fortnight, there were few with agendas to parade, axes to grind or egos to display. What has happened now? The BBC have squandered a fine opportunity by shooting it on a warm tropical paradise, hence the bikinis, for three months with a bunch of ego-maniacal wanabee zed-lebrities. An incumbent Tory MP, (there’s no such thing as bad publicity, darling) and lots of other dysfunctional people shout at each other over a limited supply of toilet paper. There are fixed cameras everywhere and a diary room. Gone is the documentary footage and in comes the voyeuristic dross. This is Big Brother funded by the licence payer. What a waste. What’s next, Jade Goody hosting her own literary review on radio 4?

Not least, it’s the bottom-feeding all too regular adverts that can really make a person weep. Ambulance chasing scumbag lawyers compete for airtime with loan companies. If you can’t sue someone, borrow. Don’t worry, if you’ve already borrowed too much, you can borrow more to reduce your commitments. That makes sense.

And if that’s not enough, home-owners are bombarded with adverts exhorting them to insure themselves daft in case their houses burn down or they get some horrific incurable cancer. Yeah, great idea. Join BUPA, but before that, give us a list of what’s wrong with you, what has been wrong with you, and what’s likely to ever go wrong with you. Then we can make sure we never pay out for any of those things. Oh, but if you are going to die, make sure you’ve paid in to a plan so you can afford an expensive coffin. If you’re old, you can always sell your house back to the bank, who’ll not charge you too much interest on the loan as it’ll only be a short term arrangement. They hope.

And as for Movies, we have a million DVD’s in our library. A notable newcomer was last year’s searing return to form by Scorsese: ‘The Departed’. This is a mob-movie, carrying a high body count, Jack Nicholson producing his best performance of at least a decade, gratuitous use of the C word and a riveting plot. It’s a winner. It’s one of those films which is not too difficult to follow but demands a little concentration. This is ‘L.A. Confidential’ with a lot more mobile phones. Head shots from .44 automatics and Kevlar vests abound, as do men with shoulder holsters hanging cool in the bar on the way home from work. X knows that Y will be shot instantly if Y reads the text X just sent to Z, so a quick SIM card swap and a call to W, who fortunately has his profile on ‘meeting’, saves the lives of T, U and V but their signals have been triangulated and intercepted. S now has a taped copy of V’s conversation with X, who will surely eat hot lead if he doesn’t leave town tonight. This is film-noir by SMS and it’s un-missable.

We should be back in England three weeks from today, then Manhattan seven days later. More then………..

Pyrenean plumbing

“It is probably a beast that has become caught fast in the chemenee. I think
it will be necessary to swipe this beast before the logs are burning well again”

“Yeah, sure, that’s why I called, it’s probably a squirrel. Do you use a regular chimney sweep or do you need me to get a few quotes over the phone?”

“No, no. You can perform this task yourself. There are poles and a brush in the garage. Be careful not to make some damage to the metal tubes and hang a big clothe over the fireplace. I have never arrived with my rod up to the top but with care it is possible.”

“Well, I’ve never swept a beast from anyone’s chimney before, and I don’t suppose it’s that difficult, but it’s a legal necessity in France to have the job done and certified by a professional. If not, in the event of a fire, your house insurance is invalid. Also, if there is a chimney fire the fire service will present you with an invoice if they feel that the incident could have been preventable.”

“Oh, it is not a problem, everyone around the region is swiping their own chemenees. I have done it myself only last year. Do not worry just act with care or use the gasoline heaters”

“Last year?! OK, anyway, I don’t mind sweeping the chimney myself, but the lady at the post office uses a local guy who charges fifty euros. Are you sure you don’t want me to call him?”

“FIFTY EUROS?!”

“Yeah, not bad I thought…”

“No, no, you can make the reperations in this consideration yourself. Do not worry.”

I wasn’t worried, it wasn’t me who would have to cough up if the house caught fire. We swiped the chemenee, and took a whole morning about it. There was no beast, but there was a lot of soot and charcoal, about enough to fill a wheelbarrow. A chimney fire waiting to happen. If I had a hotel worth around a million Euros I wouldn’t want to risk it all for the price of two good bottles of wine, but there you go.

When English isn’t a person’s first language, telephone conversations can become amusing. That was just a few days after Christmas, the intrepid sitters had called their Dutch clients, the house owners wintering in Maastricht, with a query about the wood burner in the main house.

But now we have just under a fortnight before moving on to our next assignment, to the slightly warmer Mediterranean climate of the Cote D’Azur, where we are due to be caring for three dogs and a villa fifteen kilometres inland from Cannes. This last three months has been one of our most enjoyable house sits to date, despite the peculiar and challenging circumstances of isolation and altitude.

It is amazing how we take things for granted in this modern life; not only running water and electricity, but also cars, telecommunications and information technology. When one or more of these factors is removed, life takes a turn back at least hundred or so years. We’ve been deprived of some of these things in the last few weeks, albeit fortunately not all at once. During a recent power cut, eating dinner by candle light to the sound only of a snoring dog and the crackle of chestnut branches in the wood burner, one can really start to imagine what life must have been like before the beginning of the last century. At least we managed to watch a DVD on our battery powered Mac g4 I-book. Phew, what a close call. For a day or so there was a real danger of exhausting the I-pod’s lithium cell.

But the lack of electrical power can actually be quite serious. At the end of last week we had meter-high snowdrifts completely blocking the only access road up the mountain, along with forty kilometer per hour winds causing proper white-out blizzard conditions. The power line came down, but fortunately it is routed on separate poles to the telephone cables which remained intact. As a result, we were able to report our predicament to the relevant authorities, but in the event of any emergency, not even a helicopter could have reached us. More fortunately still, the power cable break had occurred in an accessible part of the Arget valley, so the engineers had the power back on within twenty-four hours. After the first day we were starting to consider cooking everything in the freezers on Calor-gas, hopefully to re-freeze several kilogrammes of chicken and rabbit stews in dozens of plastic containers. Or we could simply have carried both freezers outside and placed them in the yard.

The telephone call to assess whether the power cut was community wide or just our problem was difficult. The proprietors had warned us to expect power cuts, they are accepted in rural France as readily as warm baguettes and closed post offices. Unsurprisingly then, there was an ‘emergency phone’ in a cupboard under the stairs. As the regular cordless unit in the main house relied on batteries and an AC input to function, the emergency telephone was an ancient affair, taking it’s signal direct from the telephone cable. It was only equipped with ‘pulse’ dialling, thus rendering the use of automated ‘tone dependent’ systems impossible. This was very frustrating, because usually it is only necessary to phone the automated EDF help line, punch in one’s postcode, then a recorded message would advise the caller of known power cuts in the area, along with the progress of any repairs. As a recorded message from EDF kept asking for a postcode and no human beings were available to answer, the most sensible thing was to call a neighbour. We phoned Marcel the wine merchant. He had a normal uninterrupted electricity supply. So the problem must be peculiar to our line. Unless we reported the incident, no-one would be aware of a problem, thus no repair. Using the emergency phone again, T found a number in the yellow pages.

An EDF employee who wasn’t on a lunch break must have been passing the phone when it rang. T’s French isn’t bad, but this conversation would prove to be challenging. As well as having an ancient dial telephone, the connection between the handset and the phone unit itself was crackly and intermittent, due to a frayed cable.  Thus,  conversations were stac….ca..ca..cato and…c…c..c..const…ant….ly…..going de

So, having managed to dial the accounts department, rather than the power-cut help line, T was asked the account holder’s reference before the operator would entertain a conversation. T tried to explain that it was an emergency and that the phone was d….dod…dodgy but the employee was immovable in his gallic intransigence. No reference number, no conversation. At one point, T lapsed back to English in his annoyed frustration:

“Look, why don’t you just pu…….put m……me through t…….to someone you cu…..”

Eventually the operator saw sense by transferring the call to the other EDF employee who wasn’t on her lunch break. She was most helpful.

“If you don’t have a reference number, M’sieur, please give the name of the proprietor of the house….”

The proprietors are Dutch. They are both re-married thus have adopted the contemporary practice of having double-barrelled surnames. At one time that was a habit of the rich and / or the eccentric but now it is commonplace. The required surname has about fifty characters and when attempted to be spoken (if you’re not Dutch) sounds in English like ‘Anner’screepyearwigkeeper’. Or something. What a nightmare. After twenty five minutes of staccato double Dutch (literally) translated into French, by the time that T had managed to assist the operator in finding the relevant account, the lights flickered back on just as the operator proudly declared:

“Ah!!  The status report indicates that the line is broken near Cauritract village, and it should be repaired any moment M’sieur!”

This is another example of  the innate contradiction of living in France. They’re always on lunch, and their procedures must be followed to the letter, until they decide otherwise. One can encounter intransigent, awkward, mule-stubborn bureaucracy in the morning, yet there is often abandoned slashing of red-tape in the afternoon. One theory is that’s it’s down to a convivial glass of claret with a pleasant lunch. Whatever the cause, to be on the good side of the mayor or the secretary at the town hall is everything. Piss these people off at your peril. Some months previously, T & L had sneakily ingratiated themselves with the local mayor by asking permission to park their caravan in the village, rather than parking first and asking afterwards; and also offering to pay any administrative fees incurred. Now, nothing was too much trouble. Within 24 hours of a heavy snowfall, a snow plough had been dispatched several kilometers at daybreak to clear the road specifically to our location after one brief telephone call to the mayor’s office.

This arbitrary interpretation of the rule book is endemic throughout France. Not only does it extend to the local village hall, it goes beyond the flagrant flouting of the public smoking ban in every licensed premises in the country. Everyone breaks the rules here, beyond even the French government’s flexible policy on the international sale of weapons systems. Yes, this Gallic laissez-faire dualism even affects the opening hours at Carrefour. Can you imagine phoning the customer services department at Sainsbury’s on New Years Eve (falling on a Sunday) in the UK and having a conversation like this?:

“Hello, as its New Years Eve today I was phoning to check you were open. Your website doesn’t make things clear regarding your Christmas holiday hours.”

“Yes M’sieur, we are open today”

“It’s a long drive from here to your store. I don’t want to come all the way to find you closed. What time do you shut”

“Normally, on a Sunday, at 19.00 hrs, M’sieur”

“……….but today?”

“That depends.”

“On what?”

“Later, if there are no customers arriving, we will close. It is New Years Eve.”

“OK, but until what time are you definitely open today?”

“We cannot say M’sieur, perhaps we will close in ten minutes, perhaps at 19.00 hours”

This wasn’t the village bakery or the corner Tabac, it’s a Carrefour Hypermarket with a restaurant, a pharmacy, a post office and parking for several thousand cars.

What a wonderful country.

Aside from these minor dramas, life continues apace.  Our daily routine continues of dog walking, cooking, log sawing and splitting, all before attempting to earn a crust working on the odd website.

Having a little spare time on one’s hands, affordable good quality wine and three fully equipped modern kitchens is not a hardship. As hobbyist chefs, we aren’t vegetarians by anyone’s stretch of the imagination, and living in isolation in the Pyrenees has afforded us the opportunity to further our cooking skills, especially in view of the huge amount of recipes available free over the internet these days. It’s a battle not to pile weight on, the only thing keeping us from serious obesity is the regular dog walking through the steep forest tracks. Also, a trip to the ‘local’ supermarket is like planning an expedition to the Andes.

Over Christmas and New Year we consumed gorgeous dinners such as gigot of lamb coated with mustard  and roasted with garlic and rosemary. The local venison is superb, rich and succulent. Whilst eating some the other night, it was difficult not to think of the cute families of deer who gather in the field behind the house for the apples which we throw them from the balcony. But then again the problem for deer is that they taste better than they look. Especially in a redcurrant sauce with mashed potatoes and fine green beans. We really pushed the boat out on T’s birthday; Magret De Canard with crème fraiche and cracked black pepper sauce flambéed in Calvados, served with poached Belgian endives, roast potatoes and sesame glazed cabbage. We washed down the whole lot with a bottle of Pomerol which was bottled at about the same time as the last socialists fled Tony Blair’s government. Can anyone remember that far back?

Every day there is the ongoing battle against the weather combined with the regular need to make minor plumbing, electrical and mechanical repairs. These are almost a daily necessity owing to the standard of building work around the houses and grounds. Some of the pipe work appears to have been performed at one time by a particularly clumsy species of primate or perhaps a blindfolded drunken plumber’s apprentice on his first week of training. And don’t get me started on the electrics, even by rural French standards it’s a dodgy set-up. About twenty different appliances are all ultimately running from a solitary twin-socket in the basement, routed via about five kilometers of ultra-cheap Ikea four-gang trailing extensions, knitted together like some sort of horrific thirteen amp spaghetti. If the whole arrangement were to be recreated in a London docklands warehouse apartment it would be worthy of the Turner prize.

Another recurring factor designed to confound house sitters, and regular readers will know that I have broached this subject before, is the constant unreliability of remote control devices for audio-visual entertainment. People who are ‘close to their money’, to put it politely, have a tendency not to throw things away and horde them ‘in case they come in useful’ at some point in the future. To extend this concept to dead batteries is absurd enough, but to place them in a box next to their intended brand new replacements, having first removed any packaging, is frustrating in the extreme.
Fortunately, the dynamic house sitting duo are prepared for these eventualities and carry no less than five quad-sets of Ni-Mh rechargeable AA cells and one set of AAA units, along with a universal remote control which can be programmed to interact with any modern TV set or DVD player on the market in Western Europe.

Except for the ones here.

And then somebody forgot to bring the AAA set from the caravan after putting them into one of his Maglite torches. You see, it’s possible to press ‘Play’ or the ‘Next’ button on some DVD players without using the remote control, then they will  eventually reach the stage where the main feature is started. This isn’t so useful if the DVD player is set to Dutch as the primary language and the only set of batteries enabling the change from that mode is sitting in a torch six miles down the valley in a caravan up to its windows in snow. Once the batteries were retrieved, we found a kind English resident of the village who is a movie buff with a collection of several hundred top titles. A bottle of Rioja for the unlimited hire of DVD’s with 24 hour cat- flap return facility beats Blockbuster hands down.

To continue on the theme of technological frustration, a particularly fine example of workmanship here is the well-water system. As we are at a higher altitude than the mains water supply in the nearest village, this property has its own well situated about two kilometers away and five hundred meters uphill. Apparently it is the nearest water supply, even though it is actually a small spring which rises in a remote part of the forest. When the house was a base for chromium ore miners in the 1700’s, water was channelled through clay pipes running down and across a mile of wooded slopes, eventually flowing into a stone trough in the courtyard. Nowadays a 50mm flexible pipe of black plastic does the same job, but to provide a good water pressure for modern appliances, a reservoir and filter system is in place 500 metres above the house. As T attended a part-time plumbing course a couple of years ago, this training has now proved itself to be extremely useful.  A quick calculation reveals that a reservoir of some 3000 litres 500 metres above the taps through a 50 mm pipe provides a pressure of  9 Bar, or 126 psi. Less technically, that’s a fuck of a lot. Standard domestic UK mains water pressure normally tops out at 2.5 bar. No surprise then that taps routinely drip and several hours of each week are spent cursing under sink units with a large Stilson wrench in one hand and a roll of PTFE in the other.
T enquired of the owner as to why he hadn’t fitted a pressure regulator and he replied that this was another job which was on his ‘to do’ list. Yeah, if the electrics don’t fry him first.

In any event, the minus ten degree night temperatures and a lot of silted up pipes conspired to ensure that the 3000 litre tank on the hillside wasn’t refilling itself. There is a tell-tale overflow stream which flows into a small decorative frog-pond in one of the gardens. We had been told that as soon as the frog-pond inlet stopped trickling, the main water tank needed attention. With no road access for a plumber, and no money left by the owners to pay one even if such a service were to be available, T & L filled a rucksack with likely needed tools and set off through the snow drifts into the woods to attempt repairs.

The good news was that the main feed pipe from the distant spring was constantly gurgling icy cold water very happily into the intended container, but that’s where the good part ended. What had seemed to be the 3000 litre tank at first, turned out, after a little investigation, to be the first of four filtering tanks; each tank being interconnected with a seemingly haphazard system of secondary pipes. It took a few minutes of skinned knuckles and soaked trousers to deduce that the system existed to filter silt away from the water before it reached the main 3000 litre reservoir.

An ingenious idea, unsurprisingly botched in its execution, was designed so that each pipe started from the topmost part of its feeding tank, then flowed into the midpoint of its neighbour. Not one pipe was secured with anything more substantial than a few pieces of rotting string. As the water entered a tank, it swirled around and lost some of its payload of silt into the bottom of the container before flowing into the next. This was repeated three more times until the water flowed clear into the main header tank, which in its turn fed the taps and domestic systems down in the distant house.

The strong wind blew powdered snow around our ears as we broke the ice on the surface of the tanks. Too thick to be cracked by a human fist, it was smashed with a wrench then thrown in great breeze-block sized chunks at our feet. We took it in turns to plunge our arms deep into each tank to ensure that the pipes were clear. A thumb in the appropriate orifice (oh, please) could detect a flow. As the deeper tanks required a full arm immersion, T was obliged to remove his kagool and two more layers of clothing so that his sleeves didn’t become soaked. Accordingly, some of this pipe-clearing operation had to be performed in a T-shirt. If the tank was silted up, the water in its connecting pipes froze. So, every tank had to be checked and de-silted if necessary then each length of flexible pipe removed and swung around until the ice inside broke into lumps and was ejected by the swinging motion.

Imagine two people in a near-blizzard, on a remote hillside, swinging lengths of plastic hosepipe around their heads uttering a string of unintelligible curses into the wind, and you have some idea of the scene. This process became uncomfortable very quickly and only caused the stream of invective to flow considerably faster than the water from the silted tanks.

After an hour or so, water started flowing freely into the main tank, but two filter tanks have had to be by-passed until the better weather. One of the tanks is teetering on a rickety old asbestos base, itself held together by bits of agricultural bailing-twine. One nudge would spell disaster.

We shall wait until the thaw to remove it and build a new base, or better still, the proprietor can do it whilst we sip Pastis in a harbour-front café in Cannes, where we shall send more from the Cote D’Azur as the Spring approaches.

Winter in the French Pyrenees

It has been some six weeks since our arrival at our mountain hideaway here in the Pyrenees. Life has settled into a pleasant routine of work, rest and play; well, not quite so much of the work, but that’s not by design. T is hoping soon to receive confirmation on two or three website jobs which should bring in sufficient funds for the remainder of the time here and to fund our trip home, wherever that may turn out to be next. It’s not an arduous existence, the isolation is wonderful; we see perhaps the same half-dozen people from one week to the next.

There are a few people and animals hereabouts who are influential, both in the negative and positive senses, on our halcyon existence in this hilltop sanctuary. In no particular order of importance these dramatis personae are:

Marcel the Wine Merchant, The Hunters (not the name of an English family), Bernard & Giselle, (the previous owners of the property in our care),  Brian the Architect, Maria & Hans (the current owners of the property in our care), The Postmistress, The Mayor and/or his staff, Sophie The Dog (who thinks she is the current owner of the property in our care), Puk & Muk (the Resident Cats) and by no means least The Local Deer. The complex yet almost invisible interaction between all these human beings and creatures, along with the inclusion of a curve-ball factor, the mountain weather system, directly impinges on our daily lives here; far more than if we were to be house-sitting in a town or small village. This is because everyone knows everyone within a twelve kilometre radius of our location, so no-one can afford to upset anyone for fear of being generally bitched about by everyone else. French, English, Belgian or Dutch, every nationality is fair game in the Serres Sur Arget community.

Here’s how it goes, like the components of a semi-automatic gearbox; the weather affects the animals, the animals affect us, so our resulting routine affects everyone else in the community in some small way. We’re like a tiny cog in a larger machine.

For example, if the weather turns very windy, as it has three times in the last six weeks, this unsettles Sophie the Dog. This is because the house is built just below a ridge 2500 feet above sea level, and it is surrounded in every direction by a forest of six-hundred year old chestnut trees and tall pines. The noise can be either eerie if the shutters are closed, or deafening if they are not. Under such conditions, Sophie expresses her disquiet by howling with her human-sized lungs from the moment of our retiring to bed, until daylight the next morning. As a result, because her dog-basket, the size of a corner-bath, is at the foot of our bed or just in an adjacent room, it is has often been impossible for us to sleep.

To cure this problem, we tried to persuade Sophie to ‘sleep’ in one of the gites a couple of hundred meters distant from the main house. But if a dog the size of a Harley Davidson motorcycle doesn’t want to change her accommodation in the middle of the night, it’s fairly difficult to persuade her otherwise. The keen-eared canine also makes just the same din if she detects the sound of a stag in the forest baying for a mate; which happens on many a still night, especially during those of the last two full moons. We tried many different tactics to quieten her, from Bonios in warm milk to screaming at her in anger, all to no avail. T recently found Sophie’s Achilles’ heel though. In order to mask the sound of the deer from outside, Lin suggested putting the 24 hour FM commercial radio on quietly at night, as there is a good sized expensive stereo set-up in the next room to ours. The tactic didn’t work. The dog continued to howl at the moon through the window at the barely audible (to us) baying stags. But T happened upon a spin-off from this idea. In a dog-induced rage one morning at around three a.m., T strode naked from the bedroom to confront Sophie howling insanely through the windows. The stereo was on quietly as per L’s suggestion.

“Listen you Pyrenean bitch, if I ain’t sleepin’ tonight, you certainly f**kin’ ain’t either!” snarled T.

With this, he cranked-up the old 1970’s Yamaha valve-amp attached to the Technics tuner. As it happened, Tom Jones, that knicker-pelted crooner from the Rhondda, was declaring the object of his current passion to be a ‘sex-bomb’. You may well be familiar with that popular tune. At around 100 watts RMS in an old isolated stone house, that sort of amplification is LOUD. T returned to bed. L sat up with a jolt.

“T, what the F**K are you doing?!” she yelled above the din.

“Maybe she’ll stop barking now, huh?” he shouted in reply

All of a sudden, a sound like a dead-weight sack of potatoes being thrown from a person’s waist height thudded against the door. With some difficulty, T pushed open that door against Sophie’s inert bulk. She was defeated, silent and remorseful. Whooping with delight at his victory, T started cavorting around the room in John Travolta-style to the beat of the music.

“Oh God!” exclaimed L, “I don’t know what’s worse. A enormous dog howling all night or a naked fat bloke lurching around the room to crappy pop music. What’s next, Johnny Vegas doing a limbo dance to Abba under the wardrobe?! Get to sleep before I throw you both out in the snow….”

We haven’t heard a nocturnal noise from Sophie since that incident.

In short, our sleeping late has often caused us to run out of time in the mornings if we need to leave the house. This means we have to travel during that dreaded French lunch period, between noon and two p.m., when taking to the roads is like entering a stock-car race, as the entire Gallic population drive at suicidal speeds in order to be wined and dined.

That said, lunchtime is often the best period to visit the supermarket, there’s no-one in the aisles, in fact it can be almost therapeutic. Our nearest Leclerc, the French answer to Tesco, is in Foix, the nearest civilisation about fifteen km away.

You wouldn’t think that a shopping trip into town was such a big deal, but the whole experience carries its own various complications. Here’s why:

As there is a distinct possibility every day that once the snow comes we shall be stranded on the mountain for up to a month, shopping trips have to be planned carefully. As it’s such a major expedition to leave the mountain, there is a lot of co-ordination to be performed. Remember that the French will deviate from expected business hours arbitrarily at a moment’s notice. As long as a hand-written sign is posted in an establishment’s window thirty seconds before each newly announced closure, people seem to accept such things with a resigned gallic shrug. This behaviour isn’t just limited to small corner shops; it extends to the larger shops, even supermarkets and banks. Recent frustrating examples of leaving the house and driving a fruitless twenty mile round trip are:

1) “This shop will not re-open today after lunch due to administrative reasons.”

2) “This facility will be closed every afternoon from today until December 23rd for staff training and holidays.” ( Remember that it’s illegal to work more than 35 hours per week in France. Also, a careful study of the notice board proclaiming its ‘regular’ opening hours revealed that the tip closed every year from Dec 23rd until Jan 5th anyway. Why not just stick up a sign saying, “Closed until sometime in 2007 because we can’t be arsed”?)

3) “The post office will be closed this afternoon as the pavement outside is being resurfaced.” (Note that the pavement had already been resurfaced the previous day, when it was actually quite dangerous to enter but the post office remained open whilst people had been stepping over trip-hazard cables and hot tarmac all afternoon to gain access. The new tarmac had by then set hard and smooth, so they closed-up just to make sure, I guess.)

4) “This cash machine has not been refilled as the bank staff are on strike today and tomorrow.” (They took time off from their strike to print this beautifully formatted note in red ink on their computer printer. Wouldn’t it have been quicker to refill the cash machine?)

But there were two contenders sharing equal first place for the most absurd or arrogant notices. One was displayed by the staff of the local Mairie who are so high-handed that they don’t even feel compelled to give a reason:

“The Marie will be closed this afternoon.” (Marcel said that they had posted this notice just as they locked the door on their way to lunch at 12:00 noon)

The second example of such pure, beautiful French absurdity was the official pre-printed card which was left by the postman in our letterbox at the end of the driveway. It’s only a fifteen minute walk to check the box.

“There will be no letter deliveries today as the delivery staff are on strike. Anyone expecting urgent mail should bring identification to the Post Office in order to collect any awaiting items”.

Imagine arriving with your official I.D. to discover that the pavement was being resurfaced…….

So, you can see, it’s quite a gamble to leave the house and expect to achieve the day’s tasks. We have to forward any letters to the house owners currently wintering in Holland, so it’s useful if the local postmistress has opened the post office at its publicised hours.
Marcel the wine merchant (5 km down a cart track) is hopefully at home and open for business. It’s a long trek, ruining our car’s suspension and exhaust system to find that he has gone off on a delivery despite assuring us over the phone that he will be present at a given time. It’s essential to purchase wine on the way back from civilisation, as Marcel won’t allow anyone to leave his farmhouse until they have tried his latest ‘import’. Such tastings tend to be easy on the pocket but time consuming and very hard on the liver. Our Peugeot navigates back up the private estate roads on autopilot.

Brian the architect has kindly stored our caravan on his land, and in lieu of parking rent there’s always a little errand to run; either dropping off some apples for him from our trees or looking at some house-painting job he wants us to quote for, but he’s never in as we pass his place. Why on earth he can’t just pay a couple of professionals to paint the building exterior is beyond me; he owns half of the gites in the region anyway. He must have more cash under his mattress than a Yorkshire farmer’s wife. He was chatting the other day at Marcel’s over an ad-hoc ‘tasting’. Apparently Brian has just bought a twin masted fifteen-metre Norwegian icebreaker through E-bay. He’s never seen it, but he reckons it’s a tidy vessel. Oh, and it’s moored up in Newport Rhode Island and he can’t manage to squeeze in the time to sail it ‘back over the pond’. Poor chap.

Also, if we can squeeze in a trip to Bernard & Giselles’ place it would be handy as they would like us to house-sit when we’ve finished here but they need us to meet their four huge Newfoundland terriers and we can’t get into their property whilst Luke blocks the road with his lorry as he converts lots of ancient chestnut trees into large planks for someone or other. Luke is a super-posh, semi-retired, boiler-suited Cambridge professor with a 40ft mobile sawmill on the back of an articulated fifth-wheel trailer. Imagine a cross between Brian Sewell and Fred Dibnah with a spiky hair-do, you can get the picture.

Before we can even leave the house though, Sophie needs her morning walk. This isn’t a ten minute stroll through the park. Unless she is taken on at least a three kilometre circuit of the forest tracks, Sophie becomes recalcitrant all that same day and the next, so it’s in our interest to keep her happy. We can’t take her on her desired route some days, as the hunters are often in the forest and will shoot anything that moves on general principal. Stocky Englishmen in wax-cotton jackets must look like a wild boar to these guys. We occasionally take our hi-vis waistcoats out of the car just to be on the safe side. If we can hear heavy calibre rifles going off in the mornings, Sophie gets to run around the fenced section of the garden four hundred times before breakfast. Sometimes this is no bad thing, because if the dog wades chest high through bracken as she often does, a day or two later she will require the removal of the disgusting deer-ticks from her skin. These are hazardous to humans and hounds alike, and we have been provided with a simple yet ingenious plastic hook-shaped tool to remove these vile parasites with head and feeding tube intact. They look like a flageolet bean with six tiny black bristles for legs. Apparently, if one attempts to remove a tick incorrectly, it can result in crushing it, breaking its head off whilst also disgorging the contents of its stomach into the hosts bloodstream.  This can cause infection and also, possibly, Lyme’s disease. They’re just as scary as the bears and considerably more numerous.

When we do occasionally manage to reach the town, especially now being the run up to Christmas, it’s a pleasure to visit. On market day it’s a bustling little community. This is where one is reminded of the stalwart social responsibility of the French, and it can be a joy to experience. For example, last Friday the town centre was crawling with shoppers attempting to park their cars. The ‘pay on exit’ ticket machine on the main car park had developed a fault; it had not broken down but it was failing to issue change as usual. (Consider that in the UK almost all the parking fee machines are the ‘exact-change-only-and-f**k-you type’). Within a few minutes of the fault being reported to a traffic warden, the man had rushed back to the town hall,  having returned with a deckchair, a book of cloakroom tickets and a float of change in a leather satchel. He sat there manually opening the barrier and issuing change wherever possible. Two people I saw had only paper notes as opposed to coins, and he cheerfully waved them through free-of-charge apologising for the failure of the machine. This is why rural France has that magnetic draw, which still pulls people from all over Europe to settle here. It’s nothing short of delightful.

The tasteful Christmas decorations in Foix brighten up the market place and the narrow medieval streets. Stall holders wearing berets, thick donkey jackets and woollen fingerless gloves bark at passers by to try their produce, handing out slivers of unpasteurised cheeses and strong coarse lumps of pate on hunks of delicious warm baguettes. There is often an eclectic mix of Spanish and French foodstuffs; Paella and Bouillabaisse stew in great fifty litre aluminium pots on Calor gas ranges, the pungent sticky steam billows into the frosty air then condenses on the cold canvas tarpaulins covering the food-stalls, causing customers to catch an occasional drip on the head as they queue for fare.

We return to the house just before evening dog-walk, about 5.30 p.m. We have just over an half-hour before dark, when the forest is a no-go area, even for Englishmen walking their mad Pyrenean dogs.

Just after six, the cork is removed from a bottle of Marcel’s pleasant AOC claret. It is mixed with a little Calvados and orange juice, then warmed on the hob with cloves and cinnamon. The wood-burner crackles, a half-rabbit goes into the pot with some streaky bacon, chalottes, garlic, celery, carrots, chicken stock and a few herbs.

There are worse ways to spend the winter.

Yuppie Town

Here we are at our latest gig, Crouch End in North London, an enclave of yuppie housing not three miles from our last dying dog assignment. This one’s a breeze, no dogs, cats, children, estate agents, gardening or anything else. We just have to keep the hooded kids from the estate half a mile up the road from nicking our client’s plasma-screen high definition TV, laptops, I-pods, DVD players and al the other stuff with which the Yups surround themselves.

The burglary rate around here is astonishing. There’s little point in having contents insurance, you might as well just have low-tech stuff around the house and leave the door open so that no damage is caused. Let ‘em walk in and out empty-handed, I say. But, so long as we’re present during daylight hours in this gorgeous four-storey early-Victorian mid-terrace designer pad, we’ve fulfilled our contract as resident burglar deterrents. Bliss. With four decent boozers and enough international cuisine within a ten minute walk, you’d be tempted to think we had an easy life. As if. Since that poorly Doberman departed this earth the day after we departed Gower St, we’ve lived in the eye of a hurricane; a whirlwind of work, rest and play and not a Mars Bar in sight.

Since returning to the Midlands L has been catering and cleaning for an agency in Burton, whilst T continued squeezing 17-ton trucks full of flatpack kitchens into housing estates where no suited-up Yuppie would ever dare park his 4WD Beemer. Some amusing stuff to report. Having been told to expect ‘general packing work’ L found herself making sandwiches and salads for the works canteen at the Bass brewery. She was working with a lady who is unlikely to appear on ‘University Challenge’ anytime soon. ‘Universally Challenged’ more like. When faced with the task of making a sandwich, then placing it into a triangular-shaped plastic carton, you wouldn’t need to be Albert Einstein to realise that cutting the bread into two equal oblong shapes creates a problem. To do it once would be forgivable, but to make a pile of about a hundred rectangular sandwiches sitting next to the same number of three-sided cartons requires a spectacular feat of spatial inability.

Likewise, T’s co-driver, who carried one hundred and seventeen boxes of flat-packed units up six flights of steps to the top floor flat was dismayed when he checked the customer’s address labels AFTER the task was finished. Whatever, we needed the exercise.

The caravan dwelling in-between house-sits has been fun. Getting a TV signal on the 12” portable was a laugh. One person shouts from the interior of the van whilst the other marches around with an aerial on a pole:

“Better, better…NO! Worse, much worse….”

This round the caravan dance continues in the unseasonally cold drizzle for about an hour each evening. It comes after daily trips to the caravan accessories shop, electrical spares shops and visits to long-suffering relatives. They delight in having their domestic aerials used as a testing facility for T’s dodgy telly. After only a week of ****ing about it becomes obvious that it’s the TV itself at fault. Not the aerial, nor the co-axial cable, nor the location of the van, nor the vain attempts at using a road atlas and compass to find the direction to the mast at Nottingham. But, mysteriously, how come the confounding cathode-ray device had functioned everywhere else we’d tried it? Probably because the signal from the DVD player tends to give a reasonable picture through the ****ing scart socket!  No wonder the picture was so sharp. After three trips to Wilko’s we ended up with an aerial the size of the Hubble telescope which threatened to tip the caravan over in a strong wind. We discovered our error when approached by the traveller from the neighbouring van:

“Be Jeezuss that’s an awful big aerial y’have there to be sure.”

“Yeah, Yeah, we just can’t get a picture at all. But the TV works at a friend’s house. What’s the signal like here?”

“Come in and take a look at mine, why don’t ya?”

We entered the dingy road-menders lair, where piles of crushed cigarette packets lay between well-leafed copies of the ‘Daily Sport’ and foil takeaway food cartons masqueraded as ashtrays. Amongst the gloom and the nicotine fog, appeared a razor-sharp TV picture from an ancient Dixon’s own-make portable. A twisted wire coat-hanger was pushed into the socket at the rear of the unit.

“The signal here’s pretty good, don’t ya think…?”

With the TV being only a matter of weeks past its warranty, our acerbic correspondence to the retailer continues. Watch this space. In the meantime, we can’t watch anything.

During a brief spell of warm, dry weather; we decide to attempt the erection of our awnings. All three of them. They came as a job-lot with the van, and when they are all attached at the same time, could be hired-out as a rock-concert venue. The only slight problem was that the man who sold them to us neglected to include any instructions. As an added complication, he decided to place the poles designed for one awning into another bag, containing a different acre of canvas. This made the TV aerial fiasco look like about as difficult as opening a pack of crisps in comparison. After two hours of picking up lengths of aluminium tubing, cursing at the bloke who sold us the awnings, cursing at each other, cursing at passing motorists, then cursing at the huge bag of tent pegs we’d found after purchasing fifty brand-new ones from Millet’s, we were approached by some friendly chaps who were erecting the marquees for the forthcoming scout fete. Barely able to conceal their amusement, they came over to offer their assistance. The cavalry had arrived. What more could one desire when struggling to erect a tent-awning than a team of professional marquee specialists? Delighted with our good fortune, we offered them wine and cider from our supplies as recompense. It transpired that erecting a marquee is to putting up a caravan awning as is asking a truck-driver to ride a unicycle. Especially when he’s already drunk several glasses of Beaujolais. One of the team was deaf, to boot. To see one half-cut bloke about to be kebabed on an aluminium tent pole for taking the piss out of an equally half-cut deaf and dumb bloke twice his tormentor’s size is quite fascinating. Shaking the spiked instrument like a Zulu’s spear, the not-so-gentle giant solicited a hastily-signed apology in drunk body language. Priceless. As the sky grew dark, our awning was eventually assembled. The next morning, T colour coded each aluminium pole with insulating tape to prevent a recurrence of the nightmare on the next occasion.

Unfortunately, no team of bicycle roof-rack assemblers was on hand for a similar incident the following evening. The instructions furnished by Halfords had evidently been translated from their original Polish by a dyslexic philosophy student on acid. Miraculously, neither of our bicycles have yet flown ahead of us under heavy braking. But there’s time. The Peugeot has developed an interesting fault however, in that its drainage gutters in the lower sills have blocked. Every time the car draws to a halt, an irritating ‘swwwisssssshhhhhhh’ announces itself, travelling from the rear of the vehicle toward the driver’s door. It’s like driving around with a fishtank in the boot.

Forced to move on from the boy-scout site at the lay-by, creating space for their summer fete, we arrive at another location around five miles out of Burton town centre. This is a golf-club and driving range which rents a few spaces to those of us who live in that twilight world; those who exist neither as outright gypsies nor as middle-class holiday-makers. We pay for our pitches, and we tax our cars, but we are often regarded with suspicion by the locals. Don’t they know we’re respectable?

Thus we arrive back in London after spates of HGV driving, catering, wedding photography, corporate potraiture, (nothing went wrong with those jobs so I won’t bore you), and roofing work (sufficient calamity for an entire series of DIY S.O.S. and beyond the scope of these pages). I will even spare you the utter brutality of the chemical toilet incident. We can honestly state that it’s all been worth it. As we lay in bed with tea and hob-nobs at eleven o’clock this morning, T idly flicked through the ‘work’ section of the Guardian; enjoying the delicious reality that, at least for now, he didn’t need to ‘act as a solid team player with a flexible attitude to working hours within a pressured environment.

Fuck that.

North of the Arctic Circle

The ice hotel in Jukkasjärvi, 200 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle in Sweden, has to be the coolest destination on the planet, in every sense of the word. The experience is simply astounding. Everything is made of ice, from the building itself to the vodka shot glasses, which increase in size every time they are refilled. The excitement is hot enough to almost thaw the walls in the hotel bar, a vast ice-cave filled with translucent frozen furniture. Only Vodka is available, as lesser drinks would be turned solid before they reached the glass.

There is an incredible sense of immediate camaraderie amongst everyone from the moment they arrive, probably caused by the sense of shared privilege at the aesthetic wonder of their frozen surroundings. Ice sculptures are illuminated in deep azures and sea-greens. A trip to the hotel lobby is like a surreal step into an arctic acid trip.  Guests can sleep on a bed of ice topped by reindeer skins. Before a breakfast of cured reindeer, they can take a sauna in a wooden caravan parked on a frozen lake; dropping through the caravan’s floor into the heart-stopping natural plunge-pool beneath.

Hardcore types can take a five day dog-sled safari across the cleanest, whitest breathtaking stillness on the planet. You can hire a snowmobile and howl across frozen lakes at near-motorway speeds as the bark of your engine echoes off steep valley walls and the ice cracks just behind your skids. Drink schnapps and BBQ late into the night outside your cozy pinewood chalet as you marvel at the truly seminal dance of the Northern Lights in the cloudless sky above.

There are few unspoiled wilderness areas left on planet earth, but Jukkasjärvi still retains a vast incredible cleanliness and an awesome serenity. It deserves respect and demands a return visit. Experience this place before you die.

Latest from France

It’s been an eventful month or so since sending our last instalment into the ether. Twenty-eight days ago we were sweltering on the Costa Del Sol, surrounded by over-sociable retired Euro-campers. This morning we were rustling knee-deep in the just-fallen autumn leaves which we found ourselves clearing from the driveway of this, our latest gig. As from last Monday we have been looking after two cats, a pony-sized dopey old dog and a closed-for-winter twelve-bedroomed ‘Chambre D’Hote’ hotel 850 metres up on the French side of the high Pyrenees. If all goes to plan we should be here until the first week of March.

The contrast between our new home and the Costa Del Caravan Sites couldn’t be much different. Our nearest neighbours are about 1.5 km away from here if you are a crow. Avoiding the sheer one-in-four wooded valley, it’s a 4km walk or 4WD ride. The attached photo gives you an idea. The neighbour’s house is indicated by the red arrow, an amazing aerial phenomenon peculiar to this region of France, the Ariege. The nearest metalled road is 4km away, the nearest village is 8km, the nearest supermarket 12km. It’s exceptionally pleasant weather here at the moment, but we are told to prepare for serious winter conditions. There is a huge cellar with two large chest freezers, a wood pile the size of a French bureaucrat’s in-tray and a super-tanker sized cylinder of LPG. The cellar is stacked to the roof with 20 litre cans of heating oil. T has made a mental note of the location of several fire extinguishers.

Why are we here? Because it gets VERY cold two and a half thousand feet up. Our job is to keep the animals happy, fed and exercised whilst attempting to prevent the dubious plumbing from forming attractive stalagmite shapes until the hotel opens again in March.

The two cats, Puk & Muk, inseparable twin brothers, often walk with Sophie the dog and the both of us around all the tracks that cross the terrain here. It’s a bizarre convoy to watch; a motley procession of two humans, a huge lumbering Pyrenean mountain-dog, then two cats, tails-up, bringing up the rear. The cats rarely break formation and follow for two or three kilometres until bored.

The locals assure us that as soon as Christmas is passed the snow falls hard until the end of February. The house owners, a Dutch couple who have returned to Holland for the winter, were unable to leave the property for an entire six week stretch last year. Does anyone remember a scary film starring Jack Nicholson where an aspiring writer and his partner were charged with the guardianship of a closed-down hotel? L has hidden both axes, but T still has the large chainsaw. We have snow-shoes, chains for the car tyres, lots of candles, torches, satellite TV, ADSL internet and, we hope, mains electricity that rarely gets cut-off. Most of the buildings are now prepared for winter, and we are living in the main part of the biggest house. There is a wood-burner in the living room that could reduce a tree to ashes in a couple of days, so we hope to remain warm throughout whatever the elements might throw at us.

This is an awesome place in terms of serenity, isolation and sheer natural beauty. The stillness at night is hypnotic. After hearing nothing but your own breath and the blood running past the eardrums for a few minutes, the pitch-black silence can be shattered by the heart-stopping shriek of an owl. Wild boar can be heard most nights trampling through the undergrowth around the house. Wolves are occasionally seen by the hunters, and bears are apparently living only a few kilometres west. The transition from dusk to a darkness here is a matter of only half an hour. The darkness is so absolute that apparently it is impossible to see your hand in front of your face if the moon isn’t visible. Then again, the full moon of the last week or so has cast inky blue shadows that require a solid hold on one’s imagination to avoid constant glances over the shoulder if walking alone after dusk.

We misjudged the speed of nightfall two days ago, and walked back to the house later than intended. We suddenly found ourselves in the enveloping darkness armed only with a large Maglite and a bag of liquorice allsorts between us. There is a mobile phone signal up here, but by the time the mountain rescue team had arrived, the bears would have left us in search of coffee and desert. Picture the scene: two nervous humans increasing their pace whilst speaking in whispers, an unconcerned dog lolling along behind with two hunting cats, their nocturnal rodent radar on full stealth mode. At one point we were unsure as to whether we’d taken the correct track, as the forest here is criss-crossed by paths, cart-tracks and park-rangers’ service roads. Unsurprisingly, the dog lead us the shortest route back to the house where she was rewarded with Bonios. We poured Pastis inside us, celebrating the fact that we hadn’t become an hors d’oeuvre for a local predator.

We time our walks now to return before dusk, and make marks on trees for the avoidance of doubt. During the day, it’s idyllic. Almost tame deer graze happily in the garden, we throw them apples to eat from the balcony. They approach very cautiously but soon sprint away when Sophie, the biggest dog in the whole of France, leaps from behind the kitchen door. Sophie is so slow that she has as much chance of catching a deer as T has of winning the Tour De France on his old mountain bike, but this doesn’t deter her from dutifully scattering the small herd that assembles every day.

But it’s not all been this easy. The last month has been challenging since the dodgy Essex wide-boy dropped us in it, leaving us homeless, house-sit less and unemployed. Sometimes it must be easier to have a regular life.

Some twenty-eight days ago, having left the caravan site at Marbella Playa we moved around 150km east to a slightly improved venue, El Camping Torre Del Mar.

Once again, following the Tebbit principal of two-wheeled job hunting, we spent the next three weeks in solid pursuit of employment. Bars, call centres, estate agents, removals companies, landscape gardeners, builders and every other possible avenue of expatriate exploitation was cold-called and door knocked. Not a sausage. Bugger all. There was one interesting job on offer, cold calling and some driving for an English computer company in Fuengirola. The problem was that the only available caravan accommodation was appalling and so expensive that it would have been cheaper to rent an apartment.

A visit to a Buddhist mountain hideaway run by friends-of-friends yielded the offer of wonderful, peaceful if not slightly over-budget accommodation; but this option offered no possibility of work as leaving the celestial retreat was an hours drive to civilisation.
So, we were offered work with nowhere to live and accommodation with nowhere to work. It wasn’t all bad, vodka was only five Euros per bottle from the local supermarket, and the evenings in beachfront bars were not taxing. There are worse places top be an unemployed itinerant.

The caravan site in Torre Del Mar was the best we had seen on the Costas, but all these places offer the same experience: being surrounded by English Daily Mail reading retirees or their Euro counterparts. And how bitchy are this lot!? Listening to the conversations in English bars in town or even by the chemical loo emptying point on site revealed the same pattern:

“Have you seen X’s caravan/house/villa?”

“Oh, yes, the bloke with the awful wife and two poodles?”

“Yeah that’s him. It’s a right state, weeds everywhere/ filthy car/ too close to the beach/ too far from the beach..”

The British expat retiree community are worse than a sewing-circle on meth-amphetamine, but the other nations have their peculiarities. We’d never encountered The Dutch before this trip, but they brought their own special brand of amusement to the codger community, causing our jaws to drop on more than one occasion. Picture the scene:

T is sitting outside the caravan site reception area, working with his computer on a beer-money property rental website job.

The public nature of T’s work is essential as the only Wi-Fi hotspot is within 10 meters of the site office. There is an umbrella above the garden table, T has a cool beer, it’s not arduous. But he IS concentrating on trying to make his client-supplied photographs look less like the featured holiday apartment isn’t actually situated three hundred yards from the arctic circle; and that daylight really does exist near Edinburgh. A Dutch couple approach. I use UPPERCASE because they talk LOUDLY even though we are a metre apart.

“HELLO!” (not excuse me)

“Hi”

“THIS IS WI-FI SITE YES?”

“Well, sort of. The owner has a wireless network and I bought him a beer or two for a few days access. It’s not really a public thing, but I’m sure he won’t mind you checking your e-mail as long as you’re not downloading gigabytes of traffic”

“YES GOOD WE WILL ASK HIM”

At this point the male of the couple donned his spectacles and immediately thrust his head in between T’s face and the I-book keyboard, causing T to stop work and even remove his hands.

“I HAVE SEEN THIS MACINTOSH COMPUTER BEFORE. IT IS NOT AS GOOD FOR INTERNET AS THE SONY VEEE-OH. I HAVE 80 GIGABYTE HARD DRIVE AND THIS IS MOST EFFICIENT. WHERE IS YOUR WIRELESS CARD, HOW ARE YOU CONNECTING?”

“Well, if it’s any of your business, the Mac has a built in wireless function called Airport. There’s no need for an external card”

“MY WINDOWS MACHINE IS BETTER I THINK ALTHOUGH YOUR COMPUTER IS VERY COMPACT. HOW MUCH WAS IT IN EUROS AND HOW MANY GIGABYTES IS YOUR MEMORY?”

“Sorry, I’m a bit busy right now, I need to get on with this before the office closes”

“GIVE ME THE PASSWORD TO THE WIRELESS PLEASE AS I NEED TO CHECK MY E-MAIL”

“I’d rather you asked the owner for that, it’s not really fair for me to give it out to everyone. Why not speak with him tomorrow when he opens up the office?”

“THIS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE I MUST TO RECEIVE THIS INFORMATION THIS EVENING”

“Oh all right. But please make sure you let the owner know in the morning, OK?

“THIS IS ACCEPTABLE I WILL BRING MY LAPTOP HERE NOW”

“Yeah, OK mate. Here’s the password.”

T jotted the info on a scrap of paper and handed it to the Dutchman, who hurried off to fetch his virus-hungry piece of Bill Gate’s driven scrap. In the meantime his wife had already visited T & L’s caravan and pestered L so much about the cost and supply source of a solar-powered night-light that L had sold it to her for ten Euros just to get rid of her. It had cost £3.99 from Wilko twelve months ago.

The campsite flooded the next day. The Germans were up in arms, and commenced cleaning the silt from their caravan wheels BEFORE the rain had stopped. Leaf clearance had begun for the Teutonic travellers barely had the foliage touched their precious plot. What was next, annexation of the Sudetenland?

All employment opportunities exhausted, two days later, T and L received the life-saving bolt from the blue offer of this last minute house-sit in the Pyrenees. We had originally been turned down by the house-owners here in favour of a Dutch couple in their early sixties, but the e-mail read something like this:

“Dear T&L, Please phone us urgently,  do you remember in August we spoke about a possible house-sit for you? We had chosen a Dutch couple for good communication but this morning we are taking one to the airport and the other is driving away fast with his car. It would seem that they have a problem with relationship and we are now in a problem. We are requiring to leave very soon and we thought you good house-sitting couple….”

In his hurry to reach the telephone kiosk, T cycled a little too quickly over the slippery tiles of the sea front promenade and landed a hundred kilos of lard plus one Claud Butler bicycle smack onto his hip bone and right elbow. Imagine a twenty m.p.h. collision with the tarmac like a walrus being thrown from a second-floor window. T’s right leg is now more bruised than an unemployed Stella drinker’s wife and his elbow looks as if he had been wearing a cheese grater for body armour. Ouch. Things take so much longer to heal when you’re the wrong side of forty.

The next morning, on leaving the caravan site with the van in tow, T’s pain was lessened by the sight of the Dutchman with his laptop, scratching his head, evidently still trying to access the site’s wireless connection with his password:

‘VanDickHead01’

So, after an uneventful three day haul across Spain, aside from a run in with an hotel manager in Perpignan who tried to charge his guests a one-euro deposit on plastic cups being taken from the breakfast room (!), here we are in the southernmost extremity of France near the Andorra border, a scenic corner of Gaul from which to watch the winter pass by.

Already we have met some potentially interesting Euro retiree expat locals from the outlying farms and hamlets. Watch this space if the phone lines stay up in the blizzards…

Stuck trucks & IQ tests

The Dynamic Duo are on the move again. Having departed our Ealing house, saying our farewells to its cute dog and amenable clients, we overnight at the Bristol Novotel en route to Exeter, where we are to collect our caravan from storage. Sixty-nine pounds B&B is a fair deal for a good hotel room in a four-star city centre gaffe, thanks to Expedia.com, but the full price, the rack-rate, was advertised at £130 room-only plus another twelve pounds per head for breakfast. £154 for a night? What madness is this? And has anyone noticed that the more expensive the hotel, the more exorbitant the ancillaries. You’d expect to pay for internet connection and steep mini-bar prices if your room was cheap; but at over a hundred and fifty quid I’d expect a laptop delivered to my room, if not at least with a complimentary drink, some small sexual favour.

Bristol is one of T’s favourite cities. It brings those memories flooding back. Rose-tinted images of bedsit land where rough scrumpy was consumed in even rougher back-street pubs. Back then in the mid eighties there were still a few inner-city premises left which the corporate breweries hadn’t yet demolished. It was still possible to find a pub that hadn’t been replaced by a ‘family restaurant’ with an absurd seven foot high multi-coloured fibreglass statue of a clown or a caterpillar in the back garden, where patrons would consume their curly fries and BSE burgers surrounded by their howling marmite-smeared offspring. No, these were drinking dens secreted amongst rows of terraced housing, betrayed by a simple wooden sign and frosted windows marked ‘Snug’ or ‘Smoke Room’. In such places T would drink with young rastas and old Jamaican taxi drivers. They would play dominos whilst smoking cones of ganja as their whippet-owning Caucasian counterparts would roll Golden Virginia.

But the times change, and we must change with them. Seeking out one or two of the city-centre pubs which T had once frequented, T & L set out on a mini pub crawl, starting early to avoid the rush. The Old Duke was still as rough and ready as ever, the clientele still as crusty. The Guinness was good, but there was no live music nor paper in the toilets. L pointed out that the band probably weren’t due to come on until around nine-thirty. About the same time that we’d be ready for a quiet pizza somewhere. The Fleece & Furkin had a Queen tribute band on; could be good, but nowhere to sit down. Standing room only? A drinking hall with a stone-flagged floor? Can’t hear yourself think? No thanks.

Instead we gave the comedy club a try. Seventeen quid to get in? EACH?

“You must be having a larrff!” exclaimed T.

The doorman said that we probably would, but, just in case, for the sake of thirty-four quid; we decided to seek our entertainment elsewhere.

At the top of the medieval St Nicholas market steps, we happened upon a quiet pub. Flaherty’s was the name and Dublin brewed stout was the game. Marvelous. The Icy Murphy’s was smooth as velvet. Trivial Pursuit and Jenga games were available on tables. Some customers were playing chess. Everyone was involved in the serious business of convivial drinking. We managed only seven ‘cheeses’ between us in ninety minutes, despite the fact that I KNOW Titicaca is the highest friggin’ lake in South America. I was robbed. Anyway, we found ourselves in the queue for kebabs by ten-past nine. By half-past, we were in front of the flat-screen telly in our room at the Novotel, trying to test our IQ against that of the nation by watching that BBC quiz hosted by the professionally unpleasant Anne Robinson. She’s had so many facelifts that the next one could pull her bikini-line up to her chin, perhaps creating a neat little beard.

The format of these shows is entertaining enough. The live ‘audience’ is split into different groups according to their respective occupations or lifestyles. Thus the Vegetarians are keen to intellectually gore the Butchers, the Public School pupils are set on mind-buggering the State Skool paupers, and so-on.

It must have been the Murphy’s, but T & L scored an embarrassing 50% between them. Although, their answering technique was less than empirical, and they had been drinking for about four hours. L suspected that T wasn’t doing so well when she disappeared to purchase a quarter bottle of Smirnoff from Londis down the road, it being about one-twelfth the price of the mini-bar. Returning via the ice machine down the corridor, she entered to the room. She caught T cursing at the screen, half a kebab in one hand, a glass gripped between the knees and a remote control pointed at the telly.

“Fuggin useless, red button, Hic. Can’t get this bloody interactive thing to go…Hic” he grumbled and mumbled between mouthfuls.

“ Well, darling, it could be because that’s the shopping channel. Are you sure you want to buy a hostess-trolley?”

The next day, to Exeter. The caravan is towed back onto the friendly farmer’s field near Topsham, where we are to remain until Sept 11th. We will be sad to go. Topsham is a delightful place, bursting at the seams with money. The charity shop stock Hugo Boss as standard. Even the solitary ‘Big Issue’ salesman has an Eton school accent and looks elegantly wasted. The local doctors surgery is found in a converted church and has last months’ issues of Devon Life and ‘Horse & Hound’ magazines in the waiting rooms. No-one is ill who attends, they’re all in for routine tests or well-woman clinics. The only accidents that ever happen in Topsham are when the estate agents fall off their wallets occasionally.

Over the last four days, T has been driving a 7.5 tonne van for a courier firm, delivering parcels and pallets all around South Devon. Busy?! On an average trip, he had more drops than Father Christmas with a truck that is quite simply wider than many of the roads down which he is required to drive. It was an interesting few days, working for the worst haulage company in existence.

It could have been much worse however, as T had the good fortune to be assigned an experienced driver riding shotgun. There were so many deliveries to make, over thirty-five daily, that only someone who knew the route blindfold could have coped. Gwyn was a pleasant Welshman with a sense of humour and competence beyond his nineteen years. His driving licence only entitled him to drive vans of up to 3.5 tonnes, so it was that T & G were paired up for a few days. G had some horror stories to tell. Apparently, such were the low wages at the courier company that one driver, who had fallen on hard times, had been evicted from his house and was sleeping every night in the back of his delivery van parked at the depot. His misery was supposedly compounded by the fact that the Child Support Agency was taking over two-thirds of his net income (£250 / week) for his ex-wife. Apparently, this situation carried on for several weeks. The chap lost a lot of weight and people began to complain of his appearance and personal hygiene. According to the grapevine, the boss only sacked the unfortunate man after a cleaner locked a toilet door, forcing him to use a corner of the warehouse racking as a latrine. Nice.

This prompted G to tell further stories of down-at-heels hounded by the CSA. He told of his good mate Alec, whom he had met when both men were moonlighting for cash as Starcross ferry boatmen. Alec had been a senior accountant for a London City firm of brokers; but his young wife had openly carried on an affair with Alec’s boss, leaving Alec cuckolded, divorced and eventually mocked by all at the office. The CSA then demanded a huge sum from Alec to keep his son and now non-working wife in the manner to which they had become accustomed, despite the boss having moved in to Alec’s ex-wife’s apartment on a nigh full-time basis. Alec took revenge of sorts by disappearing from society, living in a caravan park in Dawlish and driving the ferries for cash, investing his earnings under a new identity, quietly buying stocks and shares. He is becoming rich again, sports a scruffy beard, and is happier than he can ever remember. Apparently, to this day, neither the ex-wife, ex boss, inland revenue or anyone else knows that he is still alive.

The courier company is extremely dodgy. The ten year old trucks are falling apart and it is amazing that the owners are not prosecuted for their condition. Apparently, T was the first agency driver to last more than two consecutive days since last Christmas! G told of agency drivers regularly parking full vans in railway station car parks and taking the train home.

Yesterday (Friday 8th) was the last day of commercial driving for T, hopefully for some time. And what an apt ending. The day began normally enough, the usual deliveries to schools where angry parents cursed at lorry drivers for taking up their precious parking spaces. Oh poor lambs! Now these whining corpulent children would have to walk a full ten yards to the school gates. Never mind the half tonne of cleaning fluid to deliver by hand; no, don’t worry, we’ll just park in the next street and balance the boxes on the end of our cocks. Fuckin’ yuppies; w